Surf History: Azusa Shiotani & Returning to Surfing Roots in Japan

Introduction, Translation, & Photo by: Yusuke Sakamoto

Azusa Shiotani is a former professional competitive surfer, and her career started around the ‘90s. She competed in both national and international tours, and she is one of the early figures who greatly contributed to the development of the Japanese female surf industry. Now she runs her own surf school based in Tsujido beach, the Shonan region of central Japan, coaching men and women at all levels. She is also a founder of Aloha Girl Cup, an annual women’s surf contest  whose aim is to connect women surfers who love Shonan. The contest is open to all ages and skill levels, and features a division for mothers who have made a comeback to the water after motherhood.

Photo by: Yusuke Sakamoto

How did you start surfing?

In the early ‘90s, my boyfriend back then was a surfer. We could only meet on the weekends, as we were both working in Tokyo. He always wanted to go surfing. I followed him and eventually tried it. I was so hooked. One day he took me out for a movie. I can’t remember the name, but it was an American surf movie, and afterwards some Japanese pro surfers showed up to sign their autographs for the audience. Among them was a woman pro surfer, Yumi Oko, and I talked to her afterwards; she then introduced me to her local surf community and connected me to all her surf friends. That day made me quit my job, move to the beach, and commit to surfing. So, I appreciate my ex for making all that happen.

How was it being a woman surfer during that time in Japan? Did you have friends who

surfed? How did they support you?

I was lucky enough to be surrounded by the local surf community and professionals from the very beginning, all thanks to Yumi, so I didn’t have any particular problem when I started.

But, I remember female surfers were rare in the water— maybe one out of 20 or 30 at a break. There were mostly pro surfers or aspiring pro surfers, not many leisure surfers. I think the tension in the lineup was softened by the existence of female surfers. Some of them encouraged me and pushed me into a wave and praised me for a good try. But the surf was pretty much male dominated back then. While I was in the community I saw how these women surfers shaped the female surf industry. They were all strong and determined individuals and they spoke out for whatever they thought was necessary for a better change. It didn’t matter how good they surfed. They didn’t care about how good they surfed. I was really impressed, not by their surf skills, but by their faith and dignity as women, and their dedication to surfing. I wanted to be the same.

How did surfing change in Japan during your first decade of surfing? 

Due to the arrival of the internet, there aren’t as many surf shops as before, and I think it made our relationship [to our surf community] thin and pale. Our community was definitely more tight-knit in the past. The surf industry was much smaller and localism was more predominant and played a big role in both good and bad ways. The industry was young at that time, and Japan was still learning a lot from overseas. We had a great degree of American influences and everyone was looking up to the American and Hawaiian surf cultures. There were many surf shops along the coast who sold imported brands’ gear and products. Today we have highly skilled local shapers and gear makers so it’s a big change.

How do you see surf culture now versus back then?

To me surfers look neat nowadays compared to the past. Surfers back then were rougher and

crazier, in a good way of course. I totally understand from a business point of view it is better for them to find sponsors by simply behaving and being nice humans. It is a tough industry to crack into and make a living off of.

What boards did you ride?

I got a sponsorship deal at a local surf store and the boss was really rich and allowed me to order pretty much any boards and gear. I remember one day I said I wanted to try Rusty for surfboards and Quicksilver clothes and within a month or so I had them delivered at the store.

At first, I admired overseas brands like Rusty, Quicksilver, Ocean and Earth and so on, but that changed over time and I became more interested in custom boards shaped by local legends. My first custom board was shaped by a local shaper named Mr.Tokuue. He saw me surfing everyday and one day came to me to see if I was interested in riding one of his boards. It was the best thing that has ever happened.

Who inspired your surfing at the time?

Her name is Akemi Karasawa. She is also a former pro and mother of an Aussie competition surfer Connor O’Leary, and now resides in Sydney, Australia. Yumi was retiring a few months after we met and she introduced Akemi to me so that I had someone to follow. She treated me as a sister and even let me tag along while she was on tour. We were together all the time and share good memories in and out of the water. So Yumi is like my surf mom and Akemi is my older sister.

How has surfing impacted your life?

It is definitely a connection and friendship with the people I have met through the ocean.

Without surfing, I wouldn’t have been able to meet such beautiful souls and create networks

throughout Japan. Of course I remember all the great local surf and food, but nothing beats friendship.